Complaints become part of the record only if a violation is found, but the state has only 14 inspectors for thousands of hog, poultry and cattle farms known as concentrated animal feeding operations, or CAFOs.

By Lisa Sorg

ROWLAND, N.C.—Brenda Schwab stopped her 16-year-old Ford pickup truck on Gaddy’s Mill Road and pointed to a chocolate-colored ridge about 30 feet long and 5 feet high, resting in a field and close to the road. A cold downpour had turned the air clammy. It smelled like a rancid pot pourri seeping through the truck windows, singeing the occupants’ sinuses and glomming onto their raincoats.

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